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Accommodation: Phuket Old Town Hostel 

To make reservations: +66 076258 27

       We spent two days and one night in Phuket as we transitioned to and from the beaches and 

islands further away. When I had told people that we would be going to Phuket, many people 

questioned why, as the beaches in Patong and the islands off the coast are much more well-known as 

tourist destinations. Although Phuket was not our final destination, we found our stay to be a cultural 

experience that we did not get in the more touristy areas.

       We spent the night at a great backpacker: Phuket Old Town Hostel in – you guessed it – Old 

Town Phuket. It cost 580 THB ($19) for a standard twin with A/C. This was a steal for being in peak 

season – clean, big, hot water, complimentary breakfast. We came after hours, and the staff was very 

accommodating in getting us set up. The women who work there were very friendly and helpful despite 

a small language barrier.  At one point, they went out of their way to help us call the travel agency that 

we booked our boat transportation with. Phuket Old Town Hostel sits in the best part of Phuket for 

exploring and eating at nearby Thai restaurants. 

       We had booked our bus and boat transportation out of Phuket to Ko Phi Phi through a travel 

agency that we got in contact with through our taxi driver from the airport when we arrived. It seems 

that there are many companies who offer services like this making it very easy to find transportation to 

any of the nearby destinations. If you do end up using a travel agent to very painlessly book 

transportation, we recommend making sure the people you are speaking with are registered as a 

company as a means of insuring you’re not getting ripped off. We found Thailand to be a very fair and 

honest place, but it’s always good to check. A large van full of other foreigners picked us up at the hostel 

the next morning (also a common scene in Phuket), and it was a seamless 2 hour boat ride to Ko Phi Phi.

       We did get an opportunity to explore the town on the back end of our trip when we returned to 

Phuket. We walked up and down the streets perusing through shops getting a different, less touristy 

glimpse into urban southern Thai culture. Keep your eyes peeled for lady-men, Thai pancakes, and 

souvenirs.  Food seems to be much cheaper in Phuket than in the resort areas. A big lunch with multiple 

drinks cost us 200 THB. There are plenty of markets to explore and scooters to rent. I would have 

wanted to spend one more day in Phuket (2 nights, 2 nights seems perfect) to get a good feel for it. I 

think there is a lot here culturally we did not have time to see. I'm glad we got a more realistic view of 

what less touristy Thailand is like.

Where we stayed:

Accommodation #1: Railay Phutawan Resort
To make reservations: visit http://www.railayphutawanresort.com or call +66 075819479

Accommodation #2: Garden View Resort
To make reservations: call +66 085885143

During our stay in Railay (in Krabi province of southern Thailand), we spent the first 3 nights at Railay Phutawan Resort. This resort is located on the East coast of Railay. Some people prefer the West coast because when the tide goes out during the late morning and afternoon hours, the East beach becomes somewhat unsightly with mud and some trash. However, we found that this was not a problem as it is very accessible to walk to the beaches on the West side. Railay Phutawan Resort is surrounding by breathtakingly beautiful rock cliffs and many of the rooms are tucked away amidst jungle scenery. We stayed in a standard double room that cost 1125 Baht ($36 USD) per night during peak season (half price in low season!). We were surprised that the wood paneling on the floor had gaps that allowed us to see through to the ground, and the top of the bathroom was separated from the open air by a screen. Despite the bug net surrounding the bed, we were still woke up most mornings with mosquito bites on our legs. The resort offered a delicious free breakfast in its dining room each morning. The shower did not have hot water, but most times of the year that's perfectly okay. Phutawan is also located RIGHT next to one of the best bars (Ya Ya Bar) and hang out spots in all of Railay, so it was a treat to be so near that. Despite the bugs and the cold showers, we enjoyed our stay here because it felt very exotic to be living in such a uniquely jungle-like environment. The staff was awesome.

Our last night in Railay, we moved to the Garden View Resort, also located on the East side. Though it required a bit of a climb to get there, the Resort had a beautiful view of the ocean from high up. We were greeted with bottles of water and complimentary tea, coffee, and cookies. The room was beautifully furnished and cost us 1250 Baht ($40 USD) per night. Rooms here were better insulated from the outdoors, allowing us to avoid bugs. This resort also provided a complimentary breakfast complete with eggs made to order. The staff was extremely helpful, directing us to the best modes of transportation to get to Phuket on our last day as well as hand delivering me a message from my family who had been trying to contact me during my stay. Overall, we wish we had spent more time at the Garden View Resort.

Activities in Railay, Thailand

Railay was a good change of pace from our previous two days in Ko Phi Phi. It attracts a more family-oriented crowd as well as single people looking to have a more relaxing, good time amongst the beauty of
Thailand. The rock climbing community flocks here because it's one of the best places to rock climb in the world. Again, the West side of the island is more known for its beaches. One of the beaches on that side is a private beach owned by a five star resort, and it's by far one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, a few feet from beautiful cliffs bursting out of the clear water. Even if you are not a guest there, this beach is a favorite for soaking up the sun and grabbing lunch from the longtail boats that pull to shore selling food during the daytime. We rented a kayak for a couple hours one afternoon, which cost us 200 Baht. In these boats you can float around the various rock formations and explore the islands. We often had our lunch at the Walking Street, an open air laneway with restaurants that you can eat at while getting a front row beach view. Each night we had our choice of restaurants on the East or West side averaging about 200 Baht per person.

After spending several days on the island, we took a long tail boat to Ao Nang for 250 Baht per person. Although Railay is part of the mainland, it is blocked by mountains that do not allow cars to pass through. Therefore, the only way to get to in and out is by boat. In Ao Nang, we rented a motor scooter for 200 Baht for the whole day. With a map in hand (free), we explored inland for several hours, navigating the petrol station with non-English speaking locals. During our drive, we stumbled across an elephant trekking company, who allow you to take 3 hour elephant trekking tours for 900 Baht. Instead of taking the tour, we paid the owner 100 Baht to take pictures with his elephants, and we went home just as happy. Railay also offers beautiful hikes through the jungle or up to the viewpoint to give a full view of the island. These hikes are breathtaking, but take somewhat more than a beginner's skill level in climbing as the paths can be steep.

Although Railay is not as well known for its nightlife, there are two main bars, The Last Bar and Ya Ya Bar that host parties and events almost every night. We sat out on a deck over the water watching several main twirling fire lit batons. Though it doesn't define the town, Railay still has a very healthy nightlife.

Ko Phi Phi, Thailand

Accomodation: Phi Phi Viewpoint Resort in Krabi, Thailand

To make reservations: call (66 75) 622351 or visit www.phiphiviewpoint.com

Ko Phi Phi is known for its beautiful beaches and active nightlife. Eager to experience it for ourselves, we decided to spend two nights there to see what all the hype is about. We arrived at the island on a big boat from Phuket. One of the locals was friendly enough to point us in the direction of our hotel, the Phi Phi Viewpoint Resort. The resort was a little out of the way of the main drag of the town. It took about a 15 minute walk through town and up a few hills until we arrived at the resort. We were led to our room, which was a beautiful one room house with a big balcony that had a complete view of the island from its position on a hill.  They provided a refrigerator and bottled water. Be warned though, that there is no hot water for the showers here. Its location being out of the way from the main part of town was appealing, but we learned that night that the music from all the bars could be heard very clearly because the sound traveled easily up to our spot. The staff at the front desk were extremely friendly and helpful. They were always willing to give us recommendations of where to go that day or give us first aid treatment when our sandals had given us blisters from walking. We went in high season when the price was 2000 baht ($64 USD) per night, which is higher than at other times of the year.

Ko Phi Phi, Thailand

We found our way to a restaurant along the beach for lunch, and we were surprised when many of the restaurants had very few people in it. We later learned that many people seemed to emerge as the sun got lower in the sky. Many people in their twenties and thirties accumulate in the bars and it creates a culture where you can sit and drink and get to know people from other countries. There is no shortage of places to eat, many offering standard Thai dishes and Western fare. Restaurants to be avoided are the ones that sit near the open sewage systems. Later that afternoon we lay on the beach soaking in the sun as the clouds rolled in. It seems that almost every day it would rain for a short time, but then the weather would clear up. The temperature always remained pleasant, and the rain wasn't really a bother for us. We later got Thai massages at one of the many shops advertising them.

The next morning we woke up early and set out for a half day snorkeling trip, which cost 300 Baht ($10 USD). A long tail boat full of 8 or so people made several stops, the first of which was Monkey Island. A small beach not far from the main part of the island was full of monkeys seemingly there purely for the enjoyment of tourists like us. We had to be sure to take our bags out of the boat as a couple bold monkeys jumped in and stole one man's bottle of juice. The next stop was in Ko Phi Phi Le, a beautiful cove surrounded by jutting rock cliffs with crystal clear water. We dove in and swam around for a short time before getting back into the boat for our next stop. We stopped off in another cove and were given snorkel gear. The boat driver threw food into the water as colorful, tropical fish swarmed all around us. The rest of the trip was spent at the famous beach where the movie The Beach was filmed. I would highly recommend taking a day trip like this one.

            The rest of the day we spent exploring the island. We took a short walk across the island through a short stretch of jungle to Long Beach. To get some rest, we stopped off in some sports bars and watched soccer over a cold beer. Here we struck up conversations with foreigners from Australia and Europe. That night we had dinner and relaxed with a glass of wine on the beach. An average meal cost about 150 Baht  and cocktails were about 100 Baht. The next morning we took a ferry boat from Ko Phi Phi to the mainland to our next stop, Railay. All in all, I am very glad we saw Ko Phi Phi, but two nights was more than enough to see the whole thing. While we definitely enjoyed our stay, this destination is best suited for someone who is more interested in the bar scene instead of relaxing and soaking in the beauty of Thailand.

Check out my photos of Thailand under My Photos.

Pune, Maharashtra, India

Accommodation: Samrat Hotel in Pune

To make reservations: No direct website, phone: 26137964 (+91 country code, 020 city code)

Samrat Hotel will remind you of any midrange hotel in the United States, as you can see in the pictures. For 2500 rupees, it's a good price for the level of accommodation and hotel service. The manager kindly helped us arrange a vehicle and driver to take us to our destination the following day. Our room was clean and came with a large flat screen TV and comfortable chairs to sit in. With hot water, a great restaurant in house, a laundry service, and complimentary Indian breakfast, Samrat Hotel is worth the price. I work for a non-profit a few hundred kilometers from Pune, and our staff stays has been staying at Samrat Hotel for the last decade, if that says anything about its quality and prices. If you're traveling by bus or train, it's also a stone's throw from the main Pune bus and train station.

What I did in Pune, India

Pune is known as a fantastic place to live because it's green, Maharashtra's capital of culture and education, and has a growing economy. Many people are moving here, increasing the prices and the traffic, but so far, it's still a beautiful city to visit. There are lots of parks to visit and Western-style shopping malls, if that's your thing. Perhaps the most popular attraction is the Osho Meditation Center, which is an increasingly (and controversially) commercialized ashram. Each year thousands of Westerners and Indians come to meditate, do yoga, learn about the Osho, and experience "Eastern" spirituality. The reason it's controversial is because of how Western and money-driven it has become in recent years. The place will suck a lot of money out of you if you're not careful, but, depending on who you are, that may be very worth it to you. There is a bizarre history to the Osho himself (who passed away in 1991) which is absolutely worth learning if you're in Pune. I looked into staying at the Osho Medication Center Guesthouse, but it was very expensive compared to other places in the area.

The best thing to do in Pune, in my opinion, is eat. Whether you're shopping on Mahatma Gandhi ("MG") Road and want a sizzling plate of meat and a beer from The Sizzler or you're all cleaned up from a jog in the safe neighborhoods of Koregaon Park and want some fine-dining Southeast Asian fare, you're never far from delicious food.  My favorite meal was from Malaka Spice in Koregaon Park, a fancy outdoor restaurant with a menu of several hundred (yes, hundred) items. We had stuffed mushrooms from the Philippines, Malaysian swordfish skewers, and an Indian masala chicken dish. It's not cheap, but it's the best meal you'll have. There is a large night scene in Koregaon Park, the hippest part of the city, and public transportation is easy to navigate.

Mumbai, India

Accommodation: Hotel Lawrence in Fort, Mumbai

To make reservations: No website, call 22843618 (+91 country code, 022 city code).

I've stayed at Hotel Lawrence half a dozen times over the last year, and I've always enjoyed it. There are only 9 rooms, and the staff is incredibly nice. While traveling alone, I invited the owner to dinner twice, and each time he dropped what he was doing and joined me. He was a great man who, over an excellent seafood meal, told me about his life and about Mumbai. Single rooms at 700 Rupees, Doubles 800 Rupees, and Triples 1000 Rupees. There are some things to know beforehand to make your stay as comfortable as possible: bring your own toilet paper, your own bed sheet (clothing, towels, or sleeping bag liners work great), and, depending on the day of the week and which direction your room faces, earplugs if you go to bed before 1 or 2 am. They provide drinking water, breakfast and tea, and all the help you could want. The bathrooms are not attached to the rooms, but there is warm water (which you won't need in humid Mumbai) and privacy. The location can't really be beaten if you want to be in the more touristy section of town. On the border between Colaba and Fort, Hotel Lawrence is close to some of the best restaurants and sights in Mumbai's popular south side.

What I did in Mumbai

No one has been able to adequately summarize India's biggest city, but I'll do my best. The Colaba, Fort, and Churchgate areas on the south peninsula are most popular among Western (and Eastern) travelers. There is no shortage of great cafés, restaurants of all kinds (seafood, Italian, Arab, Indian, delis), and streetside shopping. Leopold's Café and Bar in Colaba is where you will find the most Westerners eating and drinking. I recommend branching out to the local restaurants, although Leopold's is one of the only place open for coffee and breakfast before 9:00am. Café Mondegar is better than Leopold's for a sit down meal with great service, and it's only a few blocks away. For an awesome meal streetside in Mumbai, check out Bademiya in Colaba – a safe street stall serving kebabs. It closes during the middle of the day, but there are plenty of delicious (and cheap) backup meals nearby. You're never more than a minute or two from a place to eat in Colaba, Fort, and Churchgate.

You can't go to the south side of Mumbai and not see the Gate of India, where hundreds of people go to enjoy the open air and people-watching, and the famous Taj hotel, arguably the nicest hotel in India. From the Gate of India, take a boat to Elephant Island. It's about 1 hour, and for about 250 Rupees you get to see a huge chunk of Mumbai's harbor and skyline from the water. Once on the island, you will be tempted with lots of Indian trinkets and snack foods as you walk the half mile up the hill. At the top, for 500 Rupees you can see a number of caves that have been carved into Hindu sculptures. In my opinion, it was way overpriced and the caves were nothing too special. I would possibly pay again for the view of the water below and to see the monkeys running around everywhere. There are a ton of better caves in India, so if you're on a tighter budget, I'd skip the caves and still hike up the hill and grab a Coke and watch the boats go by. The best part of going to Elephant Island, in my opinion, is the boat ride there and back. Back on the main land, you can walk the long, beautiful, exciting boardwalk known as Marine Drive from the south peninsula up to downtown. Or you can walk to the Oval Park in Fort and watch everyone from children to professionals play cricket on the red clay in the shadows of palm trees and beautiful British-style university buildings.

My last (and strongest) recommendation for visiting Mumbai is to get out of the touristy part of town and head to Dharavi. I took the train (25 rupees round trip) from Churchgate to Mahim (about 30 minutes) – the trains can be hectic and exciting. Women should probably not travel alone (although there are women-only cars), but I enjoyed watching the city fly by and feeling like a Mumbai resident. Dharavi is the largest slum in Asia, with about a million people in 1.75 square kilometers. It sounds intimidating, but I haven't found a more communal, engaging place in my 6 months in India. I spent a few hours walking the streets of outer Dharavi (just across from the Mahim train station) with one other person, and we had a blast. No one asked us for money, countless children involved us in their games, and shopkeepers called us over to talk and offer us tea. If you go, keep your cameras in your bag and simply open your eyes to what is going on. I wish I could have spent more time there, because there are undoubtedly countless cultural lessons and truths to learn from Dharavi. Yes, it's a slum, and yes, there is massive poverty and divisions I ignorantly couldn't decipher right away, but it's a hopeful, colorful, engaging place where people (at least the ones we met) are friendly and joyful.  I highly recommend spending some time in Dharavi. You won't forget it. I just walked there by ourselves and kept a good idea of where I walked, because it can become a maze (people are helpful if you get lost). You'll find organized (and unorganized for that matter) tourism to be a controversial subject, so it might not be for everyone, but if you'd rather have an organized group, there are socially-responsible tours offered by Reality Tours. I'd say just go to Dharavi, walk and shop around, meet people, and keep an open mind. I think your preconceived notions of Mumbai slum life will be challenged for the better.