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Backpacking Through Northern Mongolia

Posted by HappyMongolia
HappyMongolia
Discover myself as much as possible.
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on Tuesday, 14 June 2011 in General Travel

After a busy summer, I was not doing any things special, Than one of my friend from Switzerland ask me to join on the tour to northern Mongolia to write a guide book about Mongolia in December. Her name is Erna from a Switzerland.

We took the Russian van and our driver was from Khovsgol area used to go on that road for the public bus. For the guide book, we have to stop each of the town and area in the northern Mongolia.

We start Dulaan-khan where there is a famous archery shooting man also have a family passed work shop of archery, When we arrive in his town, every body poined his work shop, after waiting some time, he and his wife arrived in the work shop and show us how to make a archery,

Good archery would take minimum 6 months, main source is wild mountain goat horn for least 6csm long, birch skin, all kind of natural glues…

On that evening we stayed at Australian man called martin. 7 years agohe got married to a Mongolian girl and now they have little girl called a Zaya. We had so much fun at his camp, In the following morning, we all ride horses.

Afternoon, we continue the journey to the Darkhan, Erdenet city. They are second and third biggest city after Ulaanbatar. Erdenet is based on copper mining that brings 70% of the export incomeinto mongolia during a soviet time and almost 60% of the population was Russians on that time.

In Erdenet we stayed one of our friend's mother's home in apartment. Also, another third travelling partner joined us. He is name is Mike from America stayed in mongolia years and years and very famous of English teaching TV programme. He lived in Erdenet some time, so he knew morepeople than me as a mongolian.River Crossing

After a Erdenet, we visitted small towns for shooting and other guide book information than we stayed at the Bulgan -capital of Bulgan province. Bulgan is famous of its fermented horse milk. We stayed at the local hotel and evening joined on local disco .It was fun, many locals want tomeet with us once it is not that much visiitted by foriegners. So they were surprised when Mike start to speak good mongolian.

Erna was little sick and we were looking for to buy a medicine. Than local pharmacy woman suggest us to visit this town's very famous Buddhist monk specialized on traditional healing. There were other people also waiting to see him. After visiting him for our healthy problems, he gave us some herbs from that area and tell us how to use it. Than Erna and I both want to ask a questions about a Buddhism,

in a 1937-1938, it was a black ages of mongolian history 38.000 monks and intelligent mongolians killed and 7000 buddhist monasteries and temples destroyed. So, I grow up without any religion background and communism was like a religion in a one side.

So monk remind me about meaning of"6 sentient being".I was not sure, Than he told methat;" there aresixrealism of existence according to our karma: heavens, demi heavens, human, animal, hungry ghosts, hill" Than he expained each of them and every thing was brain new information for me and Erna. He suggest me to read a book called " Lamrin" in UB for further informations.

Ok, it was good to visit in Bulgan. Next following day, we stayed our driver's one of the family member's home. It was very friendly family and they had 200 even more live stock and very busy life style.

Next day, we arrived a Moron-capital of Khovsgol province. There we stayed another day to collect a information for the guide book. In the evening, we stayed at another family member of our driver.

Next day , we arrive a Khatgal town just next to the Khovsgol lake. There we visits at national park ranger and other people. From there we clear out our route of the journey. Once it is December, there would not be a families everywhere to stay. It gets dark around 5p.m and we have to be careful not to get lost in the forest.

Ok, we suggested to visit east side of the Khovsgol lake for Bulgae hot spring. We starts our journey in the morning, after few hours of driving we got stuck in the half frozen river.We tried some hours to get out of river. After putting woods and stones under the wheel, some one has to push the car. But,Erna, Mike and me was not enough to push the car. At the end, Erna start to driveand driver tried once and car get out of the river. I surprised of the Mongolian man, how strong they can be.

We had a a first sight seeing of the lake..beautiful and calm…After stayed next to the lake some time, we realized to find a family to stay before it gets dark. While we were driving we saw a folk across the road. Than driver told me " it is a sign of lost the way" .I was not sure and did not translate it to Erna.

We passed our first family ger, but we wanted to drive little longer to find other ger to stay…We were driving and driving one hours…two hours….three hours….four hours….no more family… it is allready dark…We stop the car and every body was afraid of get out of the car ..No moon…in the forest…
Inside a Ger

Ok, we could sleep in the car, but it would be too cold in the night. Also, we have to be careful about our fuel. Russian van drinks 20 litters per 100kms. ..after we all discussed, we driver back to the first ger we saw in the afternoon. We arrive at that ger middle of the night 1-2a.m. Driver was so tired and it was very hard driving for him .

Next morning it was a Ureankhae family. It is one of the mongolian ethnic and they are best hunters. It was young parents with a 2 little children from 2-5 years old.

In this time, we found away in a day light . And driver informed me that folk is not good sign for the journey. We arrived in a hot spring .We stayed one old woman's home. We all went to the hot spring..it is different wooden cabins with different temperature of water. We were running one from other. And after a hot spring we rolled on the snow..and jump into the hot spring.. so good feelings.

It wasa Christmas evening and Erna and Mike were singing a song .and wer mad side a snow man,

We all had a good sleep. Next day we start our journey to the west side of the khovsgol lake, Fisrt day we stayed at the Darkhad family. They had soo much humor and all night we had good laugh once it is too cold outside. And we all sing a songs. Erna start to record them.

Following day, we have to across the big mountain pass to make a short cut to the rein deer herders. Normally it is not that easy in the summer, only possible by horse. Most tourists arrive here by horse least for 3 days even more, but we did in a 5 hours by car.

We arrived a Tsagaannuur meaning is while lake. Most northern town of mongolia where is the home town of reai deer herders. We took a governmental chief of the community as a guide to the taega where people live in the tipi all year around and herd the rein deer.. He was very friendly man is very big sized 140cm. He introduced each of the rein deer herders family.

We had a 2 night with them. We had a party with a all communityand signing dancing all the people in a different ages. Second day we visited each of the tipi and walked in the area.

It was very nice feeling and good time with them. I felt like I knew them long time ago, There are about 118 rein deer herders, heir religion is shamanism. Erna and I met with a its shaman woman, We had a feeling that she is reading our mind and we got our answers by her mind. She did not talk a lot, after sitting many minuts…just say "saen"…means "good". She suggest Erna not to keep a knife, so Erna present me her swiss knife when she leave mongolia.

After a visitting west side of khovsgol lake, drive back to Ulaanbaatar in a 3 days.

Me !

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