The Setup & The Journey: Chasing Snow in the Spring
Planning a family ski trip is an art form, especially when your group spans multiple ages and abilities. We were a party of 10, originally intended to be a rare four-generation holiday—though sadly, the fourth generation couldn't make it in the end. Still, traveling with a mix of couples, parents, and two toddlers (aged two and three) meant we needed a resort that could effortlessly cater to everyone. That search led us to the Hotel Edelweiss & Gurgl in Austria’s high-altitude haven, Obergurgl.
Our journey began with a painfully early wake-up call for an EasyJet flight out of London Gatwick. Navigating an airport before dawn with a large family group is a feat in itself, and we were a mixed bag of exhaustion; some of us managed to sleep in the car, then on the plane, and later on the transfer, while others ran purely on adrenaline. Note to self for next year: booking one of the best hotels near London Gatwick airport the night before is absolutely the way to go to avoid that brutal early start!
Thankfully, the flight to Innsbruck is a breeze, clocking in at just under an hour and 50 minutes, and the airport itself was incredibly easy and fast to travel through. Landing there is always a spectacular experience, with the runway dramatically framed by towering peaks. However, as we stepped off the plane on February 28th, we were greeted by a balmy, spring-like 17°C. Looking at the sunshine and feeling the warmth, a momentary wave of panic set in—surely all the snow is melting?
With our fingers crossed for higher-altitude winter conditions, we met our driver. When you are traveling with a group of 10, skipping the crowded buses and booking a private airport taxi to Obergurgl is a non-negotiable luxury. I will say our outward driver was a bit crazy and took the mountain corners at a rather pulse-raising speed—though thankfully, the driver for our return leg was much calmer! (As a quick tip: if you prefer having your own vehicle, car rental in Obergurgl is a great option, and if you have friends staying in the livelier resort just down the valley, it's just as easy to arrange an airport taxi to Sölden).
Following a rushing mountain stream, our minibus climbed higher and higher up the winding Ötztal Valley. Obergurgl literally sits at the end of the road into the mountains, giving it a beautifully secluded, edge-of-the-world feel. As we approached the summit, the green fields finally gave way to brilliant, blinding white. The 17-degree heat of Innsbruck was a distant memory; Obergurgl’s altitude had delivered exactly what it promised—winter was still very much alive.
First Impressions: Hotel Edelweiss & Gurgl
Stepping out of the taxi, the frazzled edges of our long journey instantly melted away. The hotel staff were nothing short of amazing—warm, efficient, and immediately ready to help wrangle our large family group. The hotel itself has a really interesting decor that blends traditional Austrian Alpine charm with elegant, modern touches. When we were initially researching hotels in Obergurgl, Edelweiss & Gurgl caught our eye purely for its location, but the interior experience more than matched it.
Our room was incredibly spacious and lovely, offering plenty of room to unpack and breathe. But the real showstopper was the view. Pulling back the curtains, we could watch skiers carving their way right down the slope to the village, with the main gondolas operating literally just outside the hotel doors.
For a family of 10, getting onto the snow can often be a logistical nightmare of carrying skis and herding kids onto crowded buses. Not here. The hotel’s boot room is an absolute dream—spacious, heated, and perfectly organized. It is the definition of true ski-in/ski-out convenience, making our mornings completely frictionless.
Hitting the Slopes: Redemption and Perfectly Groomed Corduroy
For me, this trip came with a bit of personal baggage. Earlier in the season, I had injured myself while skiing in Sauze d'Oulx, Italy. Clicking into my bindings on that first morning, I was determined to be very careful.
Thankfully, the skiing in Obergurgl was simply terrific. The pistes were so incredibly well-groomed and wide that my apprehension quickly vanished, allowing me to safely pick up some really good speed. My fiancé had a spectacular time on the mountain, too; her confidence and technique have progressed brilliantly since our trip to Italy, and these wide, rolling reds and blues were the perfect playground for her.
The weather gods were also on our side for the majority of the trip. We were treated to two glorious, sunny bluebird days, followed by a grey (but still highly skiable) third and final day.
One of the highlights of our slope time was taking the Top Express gondola over to the linked Hochgurgl ski area. The views from the spectacular Top Mountain Star restaurant—perched on a narrow ridge at 3,020 meters—are completely unmatched and worth the trip alone.
If I had to offer one minor critique of the skiing, it would be that the lower slopes funneling back into the village could feel a little busy at times, especially at the end of the day. But given the sheer quality of the snow and the empty expanses higher up, it was a very small price to pay.
Toddlers on the Mountain: Managing the Little Ones
Traveling with toddlers adds a whole new layer to a ski holiday, but Obergurgl made it remarkably easy. The youngest members of our 10-person crew were two little girls, aged two and three.
The three-year-old was just old enough to join the local kids' ski school, which we found to be really good. The instructors were fantastic at keeping the little ones engaged and safe on the snow. The two-year-old, however, was still just a bit too young to click into skis. Instead, we found that the brilliant alternative was simply pulling her around on a sled. The village has plenty of safe, snowy spots right near the hotel where you can play, build snowmen, and sled without feeling like you are missing out on the Alpine action. Because the Edelweiss is right on the slopes, it was incredibly easy to swap childcare duties and pop back to the room for nap times.
Après-Ski and After Dark
Obergurgl might not have the wild, 4:00 AM club scene of St. Anton, but its après-ski is absolutely top-tier. On Monday afternoon, we skied down to the legendary Nederhütte. With live music playing, drinks flowing, and an infectious, foot-stomping atmosphere, it was the perfect way to cap off a bluebird day on the mountain.
But the day didn't end there for everyone. Monday also happened to be night skiing, and "the boys" in our group decided to head back out under the floodlights. When they finally returned to the hotel, they were buzzing, declaring it the absolute best skiing they had done on the whole trip. The slopes were completely empty, the snow had firmed up perfectly under the evening chill, and having the mountain practically to themselves was an unforgettable experience.
The Ultimate Unwind: Spa Time and Gastronomy
After pushing myself on the pistes—and chasing toddlers in the snow—the hotel spa was my sanctuary. The wellness facilities at the Edelweiss are excellent, featuring two stunning pools, including a heated outdoor one. Floating in the warm water while surrounded by freezing Alpine air and snowy peaks is magical.
I even allowed myself a brief, exhilarating moment of madness: climbing out of the steamy outdoor pool to dunk myself in the snow. Of course, the reality was a bit less graceful than I had pictured. Instead of sinking into a fluffy white drift, I essentially flopped onto a crisp, hard, frosty bed of snow, barely sinking at all! To make matters funnier, I was left freezing on the hard ice while my fiancée was standing there messing around with her phone, frantically trying to get the camera's 'night mode' to work so she could capture the moment! Once I finally scrambled back into the warm water, it was totally worth it.
Dinner was equally spectacular. When you book a half-board luxury ski stay, you hope the food matches the price tag, and Edelweiss & Gurgl absolutely delivered. Rather than a repetitive buffet, our evenings began with a fantastic, expansive antipasti spread, followed by an elegant five-course à la carte menu. The courses were beautifully portioned—small, refined, and packed with flavor, allowing us to enjoy a true fine-dining experience without feeling overly stuffed.
The Final Verdict
Finding a ski resort and a hotel that can simultaneously cater to a romantic couples' getaway and a chaotic, multi-generational family of 10 is incredibly rare. Yet, Obergurgl and the Hotel Edelweiss & Gurgl managed it effortlessly.
From the frictionless luxury of the boot room and the ski-in/ski-out location, to the snow-sure slopes that defied the 17-degree spring heat down in Innsbruck, this trip was a massive success. I left the Ötztal Valley with my skiing confidence fully restored, a very happy family, and a desperate urge to come back next year—ideally with all four generations in tow.