One of the best looking islands in the world perhaps certainly in Thailand pre tsunami this was a destination not to be missed and makes it into landed destinations.
The night-life and a lot of accomodation is on the eastern coast in a single area called ao loh dalum , the islanders live mainly in the north east. Ton Sai is where you will find the most upper class development with better hotels and restaurants but the beach is crowded with boats so its hard to enjoy a swim unless you up by the hospital in fact this has to be the best view ever for a hospital in te world.
Ko Phi Phi is an overpriced island to stay if your backpacking for a length of time thats not to say you won't find a cheap option so look further round the island when you get your bearings.
Hotels on Ko Phi Phi
There are some higher priced places to stay but this doesn't unfortunately guarantee quality. Swimming-pools regularly close at 6 pm and just lack of care and attention mean you may be disappointed with your environment. Recommended place to stay : Banyan Villas in Ton Sai - Good rooms and the Gym next door is excellent (your room currently allows free use) While running on the treadmill I had the guilty thought that such a natural disaster like the tsunami could have a silver lining then it is perhaps new development like this.
Around and about :
Outside the narrow path that is overbusy with ALL traffic will drive you nuts with bells ringing on cycles or thais saying 'beep beep' may initially be charming and funny. So come just for a few days to help preserve it and because its too popular anyway ! You can't blame the islanders for the development back to the busy old days they just want to get back and you would not know today that it was the same place that got hit in the massive pincer move of water. Arrive to enjoy the party some top scuba diving and move on perhaps choose ko lanta or find the better less developed islands suited for you. Tourism is hurting the island again from overcrowding please visit responsibly. The film the beach was filmed on nearby ko phi phi leh and this today still pulls in its snorkellers and tourists by the boat load of course! Western touts also make a nuissance of themselves almost blockading the path for various destinations if you like to protest then do it by not drinking in their establishments. Visit D's books in loh dalum it does great wine and cocktails and has a great selection of books for the westerner. Better fun can be had at night outside of the enclosed bars on the beach where fire twirlers and buckets will get you in the mood to play the beach games. Either Apache or Slinky bar work.
For sure try the fish manicure shops where you sit on the side of a fish tank and have a hundred fish nibble your dead skin away ! It is such fun very ticklish and worth the 120 Baht for the 20 minutes experience. You might also like to try a massage that is both pain and pleasure for 300 Baht. It's a great place to go diving you could try island divers as it is not a massive paddy factory and is young at heart with good gear and standards.